www.MSruns.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

1992 GTi 16v
Engine: 2004 24v Vr6 from Jetta GLI
Stock 24v Fuel Injectors
Stock 24v Coil Packs
1998 GTi VR6 Throttle Body
GM Water & Air Temp Sensors
Stock 60-2 VR crank sensor to pin 7 & pin 24 on DB37
MSNS-E HR10G
walbro 255lph pump
V3 Board
Future readers- Important setting to prevent cranking/starting issues when using the 5v switching coils and six individual 2N4033 (1for each coilpack) as wasted spark:
Spark Output Inverted- NO
>Spark
>Spark Settings
>Cranking Timing: TIME BASED
Spark output A, B, C driving through 6x 680ohm resistors to 6x 2N4033 5v switching transistors to OEM coilpacks #022905100H
Fidle Mod driving OBD2 drive by cable throttle body for idle control (hunts from 700-900rpm due to lack of control resolution
OEM Intake manifold change-over valve solenoid driven by JS7 to SPR3 using standard shiftlight transistor circuit ; 2N222A
Exhaust VVT simple on-off driven by JS3 to SPR2 using standard shiftlight transistor circuit ; 2N222A
Intake VVT driven by JS2 to SPR4 using boost control transistor mod (yet to program in software)
Burning out 5yr old gas in tank and finding that engine doesn't like a lot of timing. Spliced into CE2 fuse panel connectors F, G1, and G2 to use 1995 vr6 instrument panel, warning lights & relays.


Coilpack wiring (two more pairs, one pair for each spark output a, b, c):

More recent after a bit more fiddling:

Passed e-test last night with this file. I had the EGR solenoid activated full time and a brand new catalytic converter.

Output:
HC: .55
CO: 3.86
NOx: 2.36

Where is the egr solenoid on a 24v?

The control is on the front of the cylinder head on the driver's side... there is a vacuum reservoir that the egr and intake change over valve control solenoids hang from. I wired it up as a simple on-off and only use it for smog. Engine definitely feels less crisp when the egr is active.

EGR is done through intake vvt at low loads. Other then the changeover solenoid, the only other one on any motor I've seen is the solenoid for the air injection system combi valve. If you're just turning that on without turning the smog pump on, it's probably hurting emissions.

No smog pump equipped on this engine (removed). The combi valve for the egr is what I'm referring to; I ran back to back tests with a day in between with it first inactive and then with it active. Results in grams/mile.

Inactive:
Hydrocarbons: Actual = 1.76
Carbon Monoxide: Actual = 8.14
Oxides of Nitrogen: Actual = 2.67

Active:
HC: 1.09
CO: 8.36
NOx: 2.7

Dropped the HC's significantly and didn't really change the NOx or CO that much. If I had continued to fail smog then I would put it on a controlled switch to turn off (combi close) above 2000 rpm. Fortunately it passed with some tweaking so I'm not playing with that anymore.

Where is the combi plumbed if there's no air pump, just back to the manifold? If so, interesting.

You can do almost the same thing with vvt just by advancing the intake at low loads.

Yep, combi out to intake manifold over near the breather. The hoses on the engine were all off/missing so I on EGR and quench effect and just plumbed it how I knew it would work getting spent exhaust to the intake. I had the 12v obd1 egr system in mind when I built this one out and it matches in design theory... just my control was a limited.

Pretty crafty of you though.