Re: Suzuki GSF400 Bandit
Posted: Wed Jul 27, 2011 12:52 pm
Newsflash: The B4 is alive and kicking again
Just came up from the garage. Indeed the R20 was damaged, probably from failure of the TachoModule. However I cannot put the blame on this tach input module cause it was not designed or intended for such use. This is merely a small circuit designed to drive older coil driven rev counters. Anyway, I removed fried R20 and soldered a hole through resistor. Actually I soldered two leads and put the resistor on a small board so replacement can be easier if needed again. Hopefully not...
Followed EW's advice and applied Matt_GSXR circuit. The bandit fired up immediately and idled smoothly. Kudos to EWflyer and Matt_GSXR
Maybe it's only my impression but it does seem to startup easier. Maybe a better cranking RPM signal from the new tachinput circuit but definitely a charged battery made the difference. Thanks and kudos to 24c for pointing that too.
Tomorrow I will go for a test ride, same as before, and see how it runs. In fact I just might try to rev it up to red line.
However I am concerned about this notice in the Microsquirt installation guide, where it says that if triggering directly of the coil then connect OPTO IN - to 12V rather than grounding it in order to avoid thermal "meltdown" of components inside the ECU. On the other hand I have already fried something inside the ECU so it won't be the first time Just hope that it will work OK in the long run.
I was wondering however, would it be possible to connect the OPTO IN + to a smaller voltage source (eg to Vref) instead of 12V ? Does less voltage means less thermal punishment of the ECU in this case and is it adequate to trigger the optocoupler? All comments are welcome.
I am also planing to get myself or fabricate a fuel valve that will allow a fuel return line to reservoir without any cutting drilling or welding of the gas tank. Until now I have just tee'd the return fuel line back to the pump inlet but it does get hot -both pump and fuel hoses- and it kind of worries me.
Something like this: http://www.pingelonline.com/powerflo_7310-CH.htm
Actually these guys sell also an adapter plate that fits the bike's tank: http://www.pingelonline.com/powerflo_adapter_plates.htm
So back on the streets. I'll keep you posted.
Thanks and Regards
Just came up from the garage. Indeed the R20 was damaged, probably from failure of the TachoModule. However I cannot put the blame on this tach input module cause it was not designed or intended for such use. This is merely a small circuit designed to drive older coil driven rev counters. Anyway, I removed fried R20 and soldered a hole through resistor. Actually I soldered two leads and put the resistor on a small board so replacement can be easier if needed again. Hopefully not...
Followed EW's advice and applied Matt_GSXR circuit. The bandit fired up immediately and idled smoothly. Kudos to EWflyer and Matt_GSXR
Maybe it's only my impression but it does seem to startup easier. Maybe a better cranking RPM signal from the new tachinput circuit but definitely a charged battery made the difference. Thanks and kudos to 24c for pointing that too.
Tomorrow I will go for a test ride, same as before, and see how it runs. In fact I just might try to rev it up to red line.
However I am concerned about this notice in the Microsquirt installation guide, where it says that if triggering directly of the coil then connect OPTO IN - to 12V rather than grounding it in order to avoid thermal "meltdown" of components inside the ECU. On the other hand I have already fried something inside the ECU so it won't be the first time Just hope that it will work OK in the long run.
I was wondering however, would it be possible to connect the OPTO IN + to a smaller voltage source (eg to Vref) instead of 12V ? Does less voltage means less thermal punishment of the ECU in this case and is it adequate to trigger the optocoupler? All comments are welcome.
I am also planing to get myself or fabricate a fuel valve that will allow a fuel return line to reservoir without any cutting drilling or welding of the gas tank. Until now I have just tee'd the return fuel line back to the pump inlet but it does get hot -both pump and fuel hoses- and it kind of worries me.
Something like this: http://www.pingelonline.com/powerflo_7310-CH.htm
Actually these guys sell also an adapter plate that fits the bike's tank: http://www.pingelonline.com/powerflo_adapter_plates.htm
So back on the streets. I'll keep you posted.
Thanks and Regards