'88 Horizon - 2.2 TBI - 3-speed auto - MS2 V3
Posted: Fri Oct 26, 2007 2:27 pm
My neighbors think I'm smoking crack':shock:' I've spent three months cranking my engine with not a hint of a cough. A friend of my next door neighbor stopped in and said 'oh, your that guy who has problems getting his cars to run, right?' Okay, I have four cars in my yard and only one of them changed positions this last summer. But they're all good cars...
The car is indeed a slug. And yes, I'm dumb enough to spend $300 to make a 2.2 TBI run different. But - ':twisted:'I have an '06 2.4 out of a wrecked PT Cruiser with only 165k on it, and eventually I'll find a decent trans-axle to bolt up to that and drop it in. Until then, I'm just going to see if my TBI can match my last Horizon, which had a two-barrel Holly(not a feedback type)
I had an issue with step 62 in the assembly guide. Seems that I put Q2 & Q4 in backwards to start with. Then before I was finished soldering I fixed that and put them in the other way around. Months go by and I'm not getting the car to start, so I check off each component to make sure they're all in right and I didn't make any notes on Q2, Q4. So I thought I found a problem when step 62 says that the 'white label side' goes towards the DB37 connector. So I switch 'em around. Still wont start. And then I notice that there's no spark! My coil is powered off the same relay as the fuel pump, and now the pump is running with the system on, shuts off while cranking! Took me a while to figure that out. I finally just jumped the relay to get it going, and it did finally start. I think it was after I changed the injector flow rate from 300 cc/min to 500. Oh, there's no info on my injector that I can find. Every link, and search result has found lots of flow specs, mostly for multi-port and turbo applications. Right now I have it set to 450cc/min
After looking at what Bosch has to say, I've discovered that they list a different part number for my injector. Mine is a '0 280 150 640' and they show a '0 280 150 653' which is rated at 1030cc/min @ 43.5psi Looks like I should try a higher flow rate! But my system runs at 33psi... This calculator - http://www.csgnetwork.com/fiflowcalc.html says that I might try putting in 897cc/min
At the moment, my lack of expertise would suggest that I tune by studying the datalog, looking at the rpm, O2, pulse-width & duty-cycle. Then make changes to the flow setting.
I tried to use the injector test mode. But it didn't work right. It just kept running on and wouldn't shut down. I had to reload the firmware to get it to stop! At least reloading is easy, so I might try the test mode again and just figure how much of the time the injector is on and just run for one minute. Then a bit of math should tell me something. But then, I'm not sure how much faith I should put in the accuracy of my turkey baster...
No laptop yet for the car. But I do have an 1800 watt inverter. So the pc and crt go on the passenger seat. My wireless laser mouse works okay on my thigh.
Still need to do that voltage regulator mod as shown by UnaClocker on his Omni. Still running the hall-effect sensor from a battery pack. I need to use one of the spare outputs to send 8 volts to it. Maybe 9 would be okay. Eventually I'm going to gut the ECU, leaving it's connector sockets in place so that I can use the existing harness unchanged. I'm only mildly tempted to put the MS inside of the ECU housing, but it would need to be sealed more than I want to do right now. I'll just run it from the glove-box to the ECU housing(which is under the hood behind the left head-light). And the radiator fan needs it's relay to get hooked up to something
Right now though, the car will start but not idle. It will rev freely up to red-line, but I'm not ready to drive it yet. I have a piece of string holding the throttle open so I can get a decent datalog. But it runs! Yay! Finally!
The car is indeed a slug. And yes, I'm dumb enough to spend $300 to make a 2.2 TBI run different. But - ':twisted:'I have an '06 2.4 out of a wrecked PT Cruiser with only 165k on it, and eventually I'll find a decent trans-axle to bolt up to that and drop it in. Until then, I'm just going to see if my TBI can match my last Horizon, which had a two-barrel Holly(not a feedback type)
I had an issue with step 62 in the assembly guide. Seems that I put Q2 & Q4 in backwards to start with. Then before I was finished soldering I fixed that and put them in the other way around. Months go by and I'm not getting the car to start, so I check off each component to make sure they're all in right and I didn't make any notes on Q2, Q4. So I thought I found a problem when step 62 says that the 'white label side' goes towards the DB37 connector. So I switch 'em around. Still wont start. And then I notice that there's no spark! My coil is powered off the same relay as the fuel pump, and now the pump is running with the system on, shuts off while cranking! Took me a while to figure that out. I finally just jumped the relay to get it going, and it did finally start. I think it was after I changed the injector flow rate from 300 cc/min to 500. Oh, there's no info on my injector that I can find. Every link, and search result has found lots of flow specs, mostly for multi-port and turbo applications. Right now I have it set to 450cc/min
After looking at what Bosch has to say, I've discovered that they list a different part number for my injector. Mine is a '0 280 150 640' and they show a '0 280 150 653' which is rated at 1030cc/min @ 43.5psi Looks like I should try a higher flow rate! But my system runs at 33psi... This calculator - http://www.csgnetwork.com/fiflowcalc.html says that I might try putting in 897cc/min
At the moment, my lack of expertise would suggest that I tune by studying the datalog, looking at the rpm, O2, pulse-width & duty-cycle. Then make changes to the flow setting.
I tried to use the injector test mode. But it didn't work right. It just kept running on and wouldn't shut down. I had to reload the firmware to get it to stop! At least reloading is easy, so I might try the test mode again and just figure how much of the time the injector is on and just run for one minute. Then a bit of math should tell me something. But then, I'm not sure how much faith I should put in the accuracy of my turkey baster...
No laptop yet for the car. But I do have an 1800 watt inverter. So the pc and crt go on the passenger seat. My wireless laser mouse works okay on my thigh.
Still need to do that voltage regulator mod as shown by UnaClocker on his Omni. Still running the hall-effect sensor from a battery pack. I need to use one of the spare outputs to send 8 volts to it. Maybe 9 would be okay. Eventually I'm going to gut the ECU, leaving it's connector sockets in place so that I can use the existing harness unchanged. I'm only mildly tempted to put the MS inside of the ECU housing, but it would need to be sealed more than I want to do right now. I'll just run it from the glove-box to the ECU housing(which is under the hood behind the left head-light). And the radiator fan needs it's relay to get hooked up to something
Right now though, the car will start but not idle. It will rev freely up to red-line, but I'm not ready to drive it yet. I have a piece of string holding the throttle open so I can get a decent datalog. But it runs! Yay! Finally!