1984 Volvo 242, 16valve, Turbo, sequential COP

[242ATL]

My msns-e equipped 242 first breathed life in late August of 2006. I just never got around to writing up a success story.

Here's a shot of the car. Keep in mind it's a work in progress.
http://www.pbase.com/740atl/image/67168665



My project really involves a cylinder head and msns-e swap. For Volvo people, the "ultimate" cylinder head is the 16-valve unit found on late 80's early 90's 740's and 940's. The head is basically a bolt-on for the 8v piece, but of course requires valve-reliefs in the pistons, etc. However, the 16v head has a rear/head-mounted distributor which is incompatible with the tighter 240 engine bay (by about 4-5 inches). A block mounted distributor is of course possible as this was the stock dizzy location for a 240, however, the 16v head and intake manifold meant that the distributor cap would not have enough clearance. Let's not even talk about the intake manifold... that's a custom piece you see in the pictures that I fabb'd to work.

Thus, I decided to go with the decoder wheel software. Furthermore, I really wanted to go with individual coil packs as I am a cleanliness/and/flow nutcase. So I did some searching around for coilpacks that would fit... specifically on msefi. I found two; the GSXR and the Toyota COP's as seen here. http://www.pbase.com/740atl/image/67168679

The toyota COP had an integrated ignitor, whereas the GSXR did not. I ultimately chose the Toyota COP for simplicity of wiring. They are shown here tucked inside the cylinder head. http://www.pbase.com/740atl/image/66820068


I am currently running the 029q software on a v2.2 board. I'm also using the error* 1G daughter card for it's LM1815 VR sensor conditioning circuit. It also has a ton of other outputs which I eventually plan to use. I'm running four of the Toyota COP's in wasted spark using LED17 and LED19 with a 1kohm pullup. It works perfectly. However, the wiring within the case is a disaster, and I've never been fully happy with it. http://www.pbase.com/740atl/image/71676011


I had the damndest time with resets until I picked up a laptop with a built-in serial port. However it wasn't the usb-serial adaptor that was causing problems, as I tried multiple usb-serial adaptors... it was the laptop itself. Funny that a $75 ebay laptop solved the problem.

Currently side from a few stray misfires, the car runs great. It dyno'd at 140hp/140tq on a horribly tuned map, but that number is sure to rise as I obtain more tuning experience. I am in the process of constructing a turbo manifold, intercooler pipes, etc. Furthermore, I am currently trying to make the 2nd trigger work so I can have full coil-on plug ignition.

All in all it's been a super fun project and an incredible learning experience.

Mike

UPDATE>

Well... I fabricated myself a turbo manifold, intercooler piping, etc.... and guess what, it even runs.

http://www.pbase.com/740atl/image/72842402



Haha! and now we have sequential ignition! This is so cool. Unfortunately, I now have so many misfires I can only drive it gently. I'm in the process of adding a capacitor to every place I can find.

Here's an updated picture of the board showing the optoisolator circuit for the 2nd trigger hall sensor.

[242ATL]

Well, I got the sequential COP's working.

Soldered in the two extra spark outputs to LED18 and output 3.

Had some challenges on the output3 transistor circuit... didn't realize that Vcc was on the bottom of R14 and the cpu input the top (when viewing the board with U4 on the bottom). But it was pretty easy to figure out the problem with a dvmm. such is life.

At any rate, I'm still using the 60-2 flywheel as the crank trigger and now using a modified volvo block-mount distributor as a 2nd trigger. Got the idea from stealthfti on the turbobricks board. The stock volvo distributor has 4 vanes on it's trigger wheel... just cut out 3 of the four vanes, then with the engine at TDC, place the single vane just before the hall sensor. Works great.

It's amazing how much smoother the car runs with sequential ignition even over wasted spark.

Here are the metatune settings (I'm using 029v)
http://www.pbase.com/740atl/image/74038274


Here's a picture of my 2nd trigger optoisolator circuit... same as what's in the msns-e manual, but revised to reflect the way the circuit actually looks... for those non-electronics types out there (like me ) It took me a long while to get this right... I wired it in backwards several times.

The volvo hall sensor goes from low with no vane present to high with a vane present. The hall sensor needs 12v to function properly, as does the LED side of the optoisolator circuit. Took me a while to figure this out. DO NOT PULL UP THE phototransistor (output) side of the opto with 12v and send it to the 2nd trigger pin on the CPU... you'll fry it... just like I did.

http://www.pbase.com/740atl/image/73946394



and lastly, here's a shot of my sparkD circuit (output 3, remove R14)
http://www.pbase.com/740atl/image/73877310

That's a 1kohm on top, 330ohm on the bottom, ground goes to an unused pin on the LHS of D4, 2n2222 transistor flat side UP and take trigger from between 330ohm and pin1 of the 2n2222.

[65looter]

Nice car I like it.
And congrats on getting the COP working, I thought about something like that for my engine (maybe one day)

[streetknight]

congr. on a very cool ride

[242ATL]

Just did some dyno tuning this weekend. Thanks Kenny!

With a slipping clutch, we netted 271wheel hp at 200kpa. We're confident there's more to be had.

http://www.pbase.com/740atl/image/74273187

[242ATL]

Now with closed-loop idle control. I love MS.

LH2.4 2-wire idle valve from a 1990 volvo 240. TIP122 Q5 swap. 12v to valve, ground to MS.

Contrary to what others have observed, my LH2.4 2-wire valve is closed at a duty cycle of 35% instead of 25%.

cold starts, hot starts, all around a huge improvement in performance... well... not performance, but driveability and refinement.

I love you guys.

http://www.pbase.com/image/76084286

[reamon308]

My msns-e equipped 242 first breathed life in late August of 2006. I just never got around to writing up a success story.

Here's a shot of the car. Keep in mind it's a work in progress.
http://www.pbase.com/740atl/image/67168665



My project really involves a cylinder head and msns-e swap. For Volvo people, the "ultimate" cylinder head is the 16-valve unit found on late 80's early 90's 740's and 940's. The head is basically a bolt-on for the 8v piece, but of course requires valve-reliefs in the pistons, etc. However, the 16v head has a rear/head-mounted distributor which is incompatible with the tighter 240 engine bay (by about 4-5 inches). A block mounted distributor is of course possible as this was the stock dizzy location for a 240, however, the 16v head and intake manifold meant that the distributor cap would not have enough clearance. Let's not even talk about the intake manifold... that's a custom piece you see in the pictures that I fabb'd to work.

Thus, I decided to go with the decoder wheel software. Furthermore, I really wanted to go with individual coil packs as I am a cleanliness/and/flow nutcase. So I did some searching around for coilpacks that would fit... specifically on msefi. I found two; the GSXR and the Toyota COP's as seen here. http://www.pbase.com/740atl/image/67168679

The toyota COP had an integrated ignitor, whereas the GSXR did not. I ultimately chose the Toyota COP for simplicity of wiring. They are shown here tucked inside the cylinder head. http://www.pbase.com/740atl/image/66820068


I am currently running the 029q software on a v2.2 board. I'm also using the error* 1G daughter card for it's LM1815 VR sensor conditioning circuit. It also has a ton of other outputs which I eventually plan to use. I'm running four of the Toyota COP's in wasted spark using LED17 and LED19 with a 1kohm pullup. It works perfectly. However, the wiring within the case is a disaster, and I've never been fully happy with it. http://www.pbase.com/740atl/image/71676011


I had the damndest time with resets until I picked up a laptop with a built-in serial port. However it wasn't the usb-serial adaptor that was causing problems, as I tried multiple usb-serial adaptors... it was the laptop itself. Funny that a $75 ebay laptop solved the problem.

Currently side from a few stray misfires, the car runs great. It dyno'd at 140hp/140tq on a horribly tuned map, but that number is sure to rise as I obtain more tuning experience. I am in the process of constructing a turbo manifold, intercooler pipes, etc. Furthermore, I am currently trying to make the 2nd trigger work so I can have full coil-on plug ignition.

All in all it's been a super fun project and an incredible learning experience.

Mike

UPDATE>

Well... I fabricated myself a turbo manifold, intercooler piping, etc.... and guess what, it even runs.

http://www.pbase.com/740atl/image/72842402



Haha! and now we have sequential ignition! This is so cool. Unfortunately, I now have so many misfires I can only drive it gently. I'm in the process of adding a capacitor to every place I can find.

Here's an updated picture of the board showing the optoisolator circuit for the 2nd trigger hall sensor.

Hi Mike, a lovely job and a great read and Thanks for all the Photos and as you say if you are not grat on Electronics well then I am in the Stone age ??.

You mentioned the Suzuki 2 wire COPs and showed a nice Photo as well, and as soon as I saw them I realised they are exactly same as the ones I am trying to wire in to my MS1 V3 Extra, the info on the Extra Manual is fairly sparse so I followed it and wired in 3 extra VB921's type drivers as per manual but when I connected it up it just melted my driver wires, so double checked my wiring and it was exactly same as the Manual so any help or advice appreciated, I have run loads of Megasquirts and modded them to run Wasted spark and also done several with the VW 4 wire COP's and all had no problems getting them running, so what is different about these Denso 2 wire Cops, Regards DM