2001 Volkswagon VR6 MS-2 setting up ignition

[kingtal0n]

Hello, I am helping my friend setup a MS-2 v3.57 unit on a 2001 VR6 Jetta

I have already discovered that it likely has a 60-2 wheel trigger

My main concern is with the ignition system. I have heard of people blowing capacitors. Can anyone point me in the right direction?


Threads I've already seen for reference

http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=24051
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.p ... megasquirt
http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?2 ... r-position
viewtopic.php?f=88&t=23109
viewtopic.php?f=88&t=24453

http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic ... 01&t=51194

http://www.msextra.com/doc/general/tachin-v357.html#vr

[kingtal0n]

Applicable pictures, can anybody verify that I have the correct trigger wheel pictures, because it says "4-cylinder" in the first one (I think its the WRONG WHEEL), but I wanted to post it anyways for the sake of asking just in case.








so far It seems like I need to soldier some ignition outs to the ECU and somehow run them to the DB15 connector? And then remove the module from the coils? Im still trying to find out more about that sort of thing.

[kholman]

First you need to identify what firmware you are running on this setup. If you're running the original B&G code, post your question in the Megasquirt forum. If you are running MSExtra or MS3, then post at msextra.com. (The two are different and the answers you see/get will not be applicable for you in the wrong forum.)

This forum is for folks to share the successful implementation of their MS installs.

[kingtal0n]

Ok, Well hopefully this will turn into a sucessful install this weekend.

I am only looking now for an ECU plug pinout diagram. That is the final piece of my puzzle I believe.

[kingtal0n]

Got it started

The owner hasn't had time to get the minor details fixed up (throttle cable and so forth) but I was able to suck on the map and get a quick video of it run briefly
http://s9.photobucket.com/user/kingtal0 ... v.mp4.html

Hopefully a couple of days/week the car can drive ;D

Basically just found other similar threads/cars and copied what they did for the configuration. Any questions you can email me (this user name at aol) I dont check this forum often (only when I do a new car for the first time like this one)

Also I had to make a pinout by hand the hard way (trace each wire) but it proved somewhat easy (5-7 hours) and successful. Note that the fuel pump I found on pin 81 or 82 after a couple random attempts looking for it.



As usual I am willing to share everything I do so there you guys go!!!

[kingtal0n]

actually drove the car today. should be going to the exhaust shop to finish downpipe and add O2 bung this or next week.

[kingtal0n]

My friend installed the old nappy looking Innovate wideband he had sitting in his related contents box, but it didn't seem to work it just read 7.8 constant no matter what. I kind of had a feeling about this. He is too far for me to drive there just to look at this issue alone to find out it is the crusty old sensor, I advised buy a new unit and report back. Meantime, here is a hurricane also to tie things up. Soon the new wideband will be in and we can see how behaves with a little excess pressure in the manifolds from what appears to be a T4 style turbine on a 3.something liter engine

[kingtal0n]

we drove it for the first time today. It ran for 90 minutes, with 22~ of that at idle. Highest coolant temp was around 195*F, which is around the OEM thermostat I am guessing. There is open downpipe at the moment so as I type this the scent of gasoline combustion is quite noticeable. There were 24 sync loss events captured, so I know we need to work on the shield and signal for the crank. I already had him isolate it from high current and other un-related ECU wires, and we verified the shield continuity and ground at the ECU. The engine ran smoothly overall, was able to pull as a stock engine should to redline without any boost around 12.5:1 air fuel ratios and about 24* of timing I felt was appropriate at this time for 0psi. Of course I was able to lock the timing at 15* and verify it first. It does not seem to skip or miss sync when driving, only near idle. I did turn on noise control and that did seem to help. But I do not want to rely on it, i would rather fix the problem and turn noise control off soon. We will experiment with grounding schemes and perhaps re-route the crank signal wire if necessary first.

other info
the car does not have an idle control valve, yet I was able to achieve a very satisfactory stable consistent idle (it did not turn off or die a single time) using idle ignition timing control feature. Even without the control feature this engine seems to rumble right along bouncing between 14.0 and 15.0 with its not so subtle misfires, pretty good lope like it had a cam (its a stock engine) but there was no issue with throttle response or dying down so I wasn't overly concerned. I let it idle a bit high for now (900-950 rpm) because of the lope. I wonder what the engine sounds like on the OEM ecu for comparison, does it lope the same way with an open downpipe? Or is that a consequence of an inconsistent trigger? I will see how it behaves once exhaust is finished before any further testing.


No boost from the turbo. It might have a boost leak, I advised him perform a boost leak test next. I didn't even hear the turbine move or the bypass open so I am not even sure the compressor is spinning. In fact now that I think about it, we should have heard it roar like a jet plane, and it was almost completely absent from the drive. Once in a while I caught the faint whisperings of something... or so maybe I just imagined it. Maybe my brain was trying to tell me something is missing!